Nestled in the rolling Cumbrian countryside is the charming market town of Appleby in Westmoreland. Once a year in June, from far and wide, Gypsies, Travellers and tourists come to be part of, and witness one of the oldest, largest and most well known horse fairs in the Europe “Appleby".
Mobile traffic signs appeared next to the road as we drew closer and closer warning us of slow moving vehicles ahead. It wasn’t long before we could see the green canopy of a horse drawn caravan. We had missed the spectacular procession of horse drawn vehicles arriving on mass, ahead of Thursdays opening, instead we chose to visit on the Sunday so we weren’t caught up in the major delays.
Entering Appleby we headed towards the town centre and luckily the police waved us through before they closed the road behind us. We headed up "Flashing Lane" towards Fair Hill and the Market Field and parked our car in a local land owners field for £10.
By the time we headed back to the town centre it was quickly filling up with horses and ponies being led, ridden and driven. We squeezed through the various groups of people, mainly men who were congregating to catch up with each other, discuss their horses and do business. Children were holding ponies with foals at foot, larger horses were tethered to the railings, posts or temporary lines, it was very tempting not to take a new four legged friend home with us!
A visit to Appleby wouldn’t be complete without watching the horses being ridden, swum and bathed in the River Eden. There were definitely some very talented riders showing off their skills to the many spectators who lined the river banks, or stood on the bridge to witness all the fun of the fair below.
The RSPA kept watch near the temporary wooden bridge, where the horses entered the river to make sure they did not get into any danger. Previously horses and riders have both run into difficulties, with one horse fatality in 2007. In general there was a large police presence, along with the RSPCA, horse charities, societies, organisations, vets, and farriers. The vets treat horses which have been overworked or injured and mark them with coloured spray so they are easy identifiable to anyone who is looking to purchase. Recently, The Traditional Gypsy Cob Association have sponsored the "Best at Appleby Horse Awards”, promoting, educating and encouraging good horse welfare to the attendees.
We made our way back through the town and up the hill. Horses of all shapes and sizes were being ridden and driven, some at speed, up and down the road. Family members and friends were being ferried from the campsites to the town, others were out just for the ride. The young girls dress up for the yearly event, also attracting attention, and a maybe a future husband. We sat and watched the flow of people and horses passing us by as we ate our chips, and then wandered around the Market Field looking at the ornate hand painted caravans, carts and stalls selling second hand harnesses, traditional cast iron kettles, pots and milk urns.
Over the years Appleby has had its share of bad press for various reasons. Considering its size and that it has been held for over 300 years the number of incidents have been relatively small. The council and the travellers representatives work together to make each years fair better, more organised and as trouble free as possible with hope that it continues for future generations to enjoy.
